11.05.2025

Gmoakeller – tradition proven since 1858

„It takes an endless amount of history to make even a little tradition.“ – Henry James, GmoaKeller

There are some restaurants you visit once, like, and then somehow forget about. And then there are restaurants like GmoaKeller in Vienna, where, upon your second visit, you think: Why haven’t I been here in so long? That’s exactly how I felt when I recently went back there with my family. This time, though, not outside on the terrace—inside for the first time. And let me tell you: That was quite an experience in itself.

Inside, the GmoaKeller feels like a lovingly maintained piece of old Vienna. Dark wood, warm tones, traditional furnishings – but without seeming old-fashioned. What really surprised me: white tablecloths. And candles! This small, almost festive touch makes a big difference. It immediately feels a bit more special, without being stuffy. For me, that’s exactly the balance a good Heuriger in Vienna should strike today: quaint, charming, but with style.

Are you also keen to experiment?

We had a table in the back, where it’s a bit quieter. Perfect for a family dinner. And it was one of those Sundays where everything just seemed right: the light was soft, the conversations relaxed, the food… well, we’ll get to that in a moment.

The menu reads like a best-of local cuisine. No frills, no experiments—just what you want when you’re craving something hearty. And since there were four of us, we were able to sample a wide variety. There were: grammel dumplings, onion roast beef, beef goulash, and—now it gets interesting—brains.

“ now it gets interesting – brain… „

Yes, you read that right. Baked brains. It might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I’ll be honest: I love it when a restaurant still offers such classics. And when they’re made as well as they are here, there’s nothing to argue about. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside – that’s exactly how it should be. And while I can understand why some people draw the line there, I have to say: If you’ve never tried it, you’re missing out.

Traditional food

But back to the beginning: The grammel dumpling. Juicy, flavorful, and perfectly balanced with the sauerkraut underneath. Not a bit dry or too fatty—just right. And the presentation was truly beautiful—traditional food can look stylish, too. The Zwiebelrostbraten (onion roast) was a classic, just as it should be: tender, with plenty of sauce, and so many crispy fried onions on top that you’d want to eat them on their own. A few crispy potatoes rounded off the whole dish.

The goulash was the soul food of the day. Robust, rounded in flavor, with a slight spiciness that only comes at the very end. And the best part? The bread dumplings, which absorbed everything like a sponge. I know that might sound overly poetic, but it was really, really good. And a cold beer to go with it—what more could you want?

Another thing you shouldn’t underestimate at GmoaKeller is the beer selection. Instead of the usual suspects, you’ll also find exciting, off-the-beaten-path varieties. I had a Theresianer – a beer from Italy with Austrian roots that’s beautifully malty yet easy to drink. My husband opted for a beer called Lebensfreude (or was it Lebenslust? – you’d never know for sure after the second mug anyway). And what can I say: the name says it all. Fresh, lively, with a hint of fruitiness – perfect as an accompaniment to a hearty goulash or simply to toast a successful evening. You can tell: GmoaKeller doesn’t do things by halves when it comes to beer, either.

my summary

What I generally liked: The service was attentive, but not intrusive. Friendly, without seeming fake. You can tell the team enjoys working here. And you can also tell that many guests are repeat guests—that „everyone knows each other“ vibe you’d normally expect in the countryside was palpable here.

The GmoaKeller isn’t a place for quick trends or Instagram hype. And that’s precisely what makes it so special. It’s about consistency, quality, and a love of Austrian cuisine. It’s a restaurant that has stayed true to itself – but still understands what we expect from a good Heurigen today: authenticity, atmosphere, and food that won’t be forgotten after the second bite.

“Everyone knows each other.”

I’m glad I went inside this time. As much as I like the terrace—especially in summer, it’s a mini city break—the interior of the restaurant simply tells a different story. It has depth. And maybe sometimes it’s precisely this change of perspective that’s needed to truly appreciate something.

So, next time you’re in the mood for a bit of Vienna—not the touristy Vienna, but the real, hearty, cozy Vienna—then head to the GmoaKeller. And if you dare, try the brain. Really.