„There’s a rhythm to this city that makes you feel alive.“; Munich Diaries
There are cities you visit once – and then there are cities that stay with you for life. Munich definitely belongs to the latter category for us. No matter how often we’re there. No matter if we visit the exact same places, take the same routes, go to the same restaurants – it feels different every single time. Perhaps because we ourselves aren’t the same anymore. Or perhaps because Munich possesses this rare ability to feel a little new each time.
For those who don’t know: Munich was our first short holiday together. The moment my husband officially asked me to be his girlfriend happened here. No big drama, no cheesy script – but a genuine feeling that has stayed with us to this day. Since then, Munich has been more than just a beautiful city for us. It’s the beginning of our story.
Perhaps that’s why we keep coming back here. Or maybe it’s simply the beer, the thermal baths, the Christmas markets, and that special blend of big city life and coziness. This time, we were there the weekend before Christmas. A conscious, peaceful start to our Christmas vacation. No stress, no to-do list, no „we absolutely have to…“ Just arrive, breathe deeply, and enjoy.
Let yourself arrive
– our start at Therme Erding
As usual, our Munich trip didn’t start directly in the city, but at the Erding Thermal Spa. For us, this has become a real ritual. I’ll keep this brief, as there’s already a separate blog post about the spa – but a few things still need to be said.
The thermal baths have just been renovated. And I think that’s precisely what distinguishes high-quality thermal baths: that they constantly evolve, improve, and don’t stagnate. Of course, we humans are always critical when it comes to change. But we personally think it’s great. The basic concept has remained the same – and that’s a good thing.
The biggest difference is in the Vital Oasis. This area now has significantly more saunas and remains a textile-only zone. A really good idea, in my opinion. This way, people who might otherwise be hesitant to take off their swimwear can also enjoy the sauna experience. Sauna culture can be gentle – no one needs to be overwhelmed.
As usual, we were in the clothing-optional sauna area. There, we had our specially booked lounger, which we called home for two days. Two days of doing nothing. Two days of sweating, sleeping, reading, talking, and being silent. Exactly how a vacation should feel.
A guaranteed fixed point
– Ayinger am Platzl
Our first evening had one very clear focus: the Ayinger Restaurant. For us, this place is as much a part of Munich as Marienplatz. We go there every single time. And I think that says it all.
For starters, I had beef tartare, and my husband had the pumpkin and ginger cream soup. For our main courses, I had venison goulash and he had the classic veal schnitzel. And yes – we both had a beer, of course. Anything else would have been disrespectful. What I love about the Ayinger is that it’s excellent value for money. It’s cozy, but in a sophisticated, grown-up way.
No frills, no tourist traps, just honest, consistently good food. And I always leave full, happy, and satisfied. That’s all I want from a restaurant in Munich.
Christmas markets & reruns
– that never get boring
On the second day, we decided to explore the Christmas markets in the city center. We do this every year – and yet it never feels the same. Especially in Munich, Christmas markets have a certain familiarity.
We have our regular stalls where we always buy decorations. Some things end up at our home, others we give to family and friends. I love it when someone lights a candle or displays a small figurine months later – and you know: It’s from Munich. Souvenirs don’t have to be kitschy. They can hold memories.
The Christmas market at Marienplatz is loud, crowded, and vibrant – and that’s precisely why it belongs. The enormous Christmas tree, the town hall in the background, the strings of lights, the babble of voices in every language. Here you can feel that Munich doesn’t have to be silent at Christmastime, but can also be bustling with life.
We strolled slowly through the stalls, looking, smelling, smiling. You stop, even if you don’t actually intend to buy anything. Just to be there for a moment. And sometimes that’s all it takes.
A quick visit to LUSH
– or perhaps something a little longer
A visit to the LUSH store in downtown Munich has become almost as much a part of my routine as a stroll through Marienplatz. I simply love this store. It’s huge, colorful, loud, smells of everything at once – and I could easily spend hours there. Bath bombs, body bars, face masks, soaps in every color… my inner child definitely has a very, very good day there. Much to the slight misfortune of my husband, who usually patiently searches for me among the shelves while I let myself drift from one fragrance to the next. But honestly: if you’re already in Munich, you’re entitled to make time for exactly that. Some people collect memories, I collect LUSH products.
A leap into the Middle Ages
– Christmas market at the Residence
After that, we headed to the medieval Christmas market near the Residenz. One of those places where Munich suddenly feels completely different. And we were really lucky this year: there were people there, but no crowds. No pushing and shoving. No endless waiting in line. Just the right mix of atmosphere and relaxation. The first thing we had, of course, was punch. Thor’s Hammer. Explaining it would be too complicated. Try it – and thank me afterward.
This market really offers a lot in terms of food – and this time we went back to something we loved. A medieval-style mini-pizza with cheese, bacon, and onions. I’ve unfortunately forgotten the exact name, but the stall was right next to the punch stand.
Later, I fancied something savory, and we tried Kaspressknödel (cheese dumplings) with butter, Parmesan, and sauerkraut for the first time. And let me tell you: they definitely don’t skimp on the butter. It was hearty, rich, and perfect. Exactly what you want to eat on a cold December evening in Munich.
my summary
– why Munich is different every time
To be honest, we didn’t do anything spectacular this weekend. No new sights, no big adventure, no „you absolutely have to do this.“ And yet, it was unique once again.
Perhaps because Munich isn’t a place we just want to tick off our list. It’s a place we keep returning to. Just the two of us. With memories that grow a little richer with each visit. Maybe that’s the magic of Munich.
And that’s precisely why Munich will probably always have a permanent place in our diaries. To be continued. 🤍
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