„Wishing you a holly jolly Christmas!“; Rathausplatz Christmas Market
There are places in Vienna that are simply part of the Advent season – and no matter how many times you’ve seen them, Rathausplatz always exerts a magical pull. I sometimes feel like half of Europe knows this Christmas market, and in a way, that’s true. As soon as it gets colder outside, the first strings of lights are hung, and the scent of mulled wine fills the air, Rathausplatz transforms into its own little world.
And that’s precisely why it was clear: I had to go again this year – no question about it. For me, a Christmas market is more than just punch, snacks, and decorations. It’s that feeling of: Okay, now the real Christmas season begins. And nowhere do you feel that more strongly than at the Rathausplatz (town hall square).
Why the rathausplatz is a must for me every year
I know many people in Vienna have very strong opinions about Rathausplatz – too touristy, too crowded, too loud. But honestly? For me, this Christmas market is simply a must. Every year. Without fail. I have so many memories of this square: of my childhood, of walks after work, of little traditions my husband and I have created. And that’s precisely what makes it an essential event for me.
No matter how many new markets open each year, or how beautifully the smaller, quieter corners of Vienna are decorated, the Rathausplatz (town hall square) remains the place that feels like the official starting signal. The Christmas market there is like a ritual. A fixed point. A touch of nostalgia that is a little different each year, yet always familiar.
This year:
my daytime visit
This time I wanted to try something different: visit Rathausplatz not in the evening as usual, but during the day. I love the magic of the night – the glow, the sparkle, the atmosphere you only get at a Christmas market in the dark. But I wanted to really see the stalls properly, without hundreds of people crowding in front of them at once.
And I have to say: it was exactly the right decision. Rathausplatz feels completely different during the day. Calmer. More tangible. You see details you’d never notice otherwise because they’re lost in the sea of lights. The Christmas market suddenly had something charming, more relaxed, almost small-town vibe – even though we were right in the heart of Vienna.
The only downside: there could definitely be more maps of the area. You quickly realize that you have to search just as much during the day as in the evening, only with less stress. Finding your way around isn’t impossible, but it’s definitely a bit of an adventure.
Dining at the Christmas market
– this time a little adventure
What immediately struck me was that the food stalls had been completely rearranged this year. Before, everything seemed to be clustered together, and you just had to join any queue. Now they’re spread all over the town hall square – which is exciting, but also a bit confusing when you’re hungry.
We ended up choosing potato pancakes. Classic, no frills: just salt and garlic. I love this simple snack because, for me, it’s practically the essence of the Christmas market. And yes, they were perfect. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. A little slice of happiness.
The town hall square offers much more, of course: ham and noodle casserole, cheese spaetzle, hot dogs, lángos… the classics that are simply a must. And here’s my personal tip – and believe me, it’s ALWAYS true: Wherever the longest line is, that’s where the food is. At the Christmas market, this system actually works better than any menu.
Punch, beer mugs, chips
– the famous system at the rathausplatz
Let’s get to the most important category at any Christmas market: punch. At the town hall square, there are definitely more punch stalls than food stalls. You get the feeling that every few meters someone is holding up a mug of punch. And the selection is solid: classic, straightforward, familiar.
But what you REALLY need to know – and I say this every year because otherwise it gets expensive: When you buy punch, be sure to take the token with you.
Without this little chip, you can’t return the beer mug, and just like that – 5 euros gone. And let’s be honest: 5 euros for a beer mug is… a lot. The Rathausplatz (town hall square) is, by the way, the only Christmas market in Vienna that uses this system, and unfortunately, it’s not very well communicated. So: stash your chip, preferably in a secure bag, and please don’t lose it. In the evening, the chaos is real. I’ve seen so many people frantically searching for it – believe me, you don’t want that.
Our tradition:
A new decorative piece every year.
As I’ve mentioned in many of my blog posts about the Viennese markets: My husband and I have a little tradition. Every year, we pick out a new Christmas decoration at the Christmas market. It’s usually an ornament, but sometimes something special – and this year it was a hanging nutcracker.
It’s incredibly cute, a little whimsical, perfect for our tree. And I keep catching myself looking at it and smiling. I get extremely sentimental about things like this – I know exactly when we bought each piece, and each one reminds me of a specific year, a specific moment, a specific mood.
The rathausplatz is simply perfect for it. The decoration stalls there have a blend of tradition, craftsmanship, and nostalgia that’s often hard to find elsewhere. And yes – they won me over again this year.
Highlights around the square:
Ferris wheel, train & carousel
Even beyond punch and food, the Rathausplatz has so much to offer. During the day, you can see the smaller attractions much better: the mini Ferris wheel, the famous little train that I loved as a child, the playground, and of course the carousel in the middle – now a definite highlight and a great photo spot.
In the evening, everything seems more magical when the lights come on, but the square has its own charm even during the day. And yes, there’s also a large ice skating rink on the left. Personally, though, I’m more excited for the Vienna Ice Dream in January – simply because it’s even more impressive. Nevertheless, it’s an essential part of the Christmas season. A Christmas market without little attractions for children feels incomplete to me. And Rathausplatz delivers every year.
Daytime vs. evening
– which Rathausplatz wins?
The question I asked myself was: Is the town hall square really worth visiting during the day? And yes – absolutely. The Christmas market feels completely different at midday. It’s more manageable, relaxed, and ideal for seeing all the details.
But in the evening? That’s when the magic happens. The lights, the atmosphere, the sparkle… it’s a different experience altogether.
And that’s precisely why I say: If you have the chance, visit the town hall square both times – during the day and in the evening. One Christmas market with two distinct personalities, and both are beautiful in their own way.
my summary
This Christmas market is simply a must.
In the end, I stand by what I say every year: Rathausplatz is as much a part of Advent as punch is to a mug. No matter how often I go, no matter how crowded it gets, no matter what others say – this Christmas market is a fixed point, a piece of Vienna, a piece of tradition. And honestly? It’s always worth it. Whether by day, when you want to stroll leisurely, or by night, when everything is sparkling. Rathausplatz remains one of the places where the Christmas spirit truly takes hold – a little different every year, yet always exactly the way I love it.
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