„Salzburg, where every alley holds a thousand stories.“; Salzburg
There are cities that feel like a little repository for memories. Salzburg is exactly that kind of place for me. And somehow I can hardly believe that a whole year has actually passed since I was last there. Back then, everything was rather spontaneous, a mix of sightseeing and simply taking a breather. This year was different. This year, Salzburg felt even more Christmassy to me, much cozier, and somehow a bit more emotional. Perhaps because I know the city better now, perhaps because I longed for this kind of festive magic – or perhaps simply because Christmas in Salzburg is in a league of its own.
It was one of those bitterly cold days when even your fingers freeze in your gloves. Perfect, then, to snuggle up somewhere, treat yourself to something warm, and then stroll through the city. And that’s exactly what we did. This time, something was on the agenda that had been on my little culinary bucket list for a long time: lunch at St. Peter Stiftskeller. One of the oldest restaurants in Europe… and suddenly there I was, right in the middle of it all.
St. Peter Stiftskeller
– my personal Christmas fairytale
There are moments when you walk into a room and immediately think, „Okay, this is going to be good.“ And that’s exactly how it was. The decorations completely captivated me the moment I walked in—and by completely, I mean: excessively Christmassy, excessively abundant, excessively kitschy… and precisely because of that, absolutely perfect. Salzburg is generally quite magical, but here it was as if someone had sent Christmas through an amplifier.
Luckily, we had made a reservation because—unsurprisingly—it was completely full. And I mean completely packed. Advent in Salzburg is, after all, the time when everyone is out doing something, everyone is going out to eat, everyone is trying to capture that magical atmosphere. And honestly? I understand. I really wanted to experience it this year, too. And I did.
Because it was truly freezing outside, we each ordered soup to warm up. I had chestnut cream soup, my husband a classic boiled beef soup. And I rarely say this, but: it was like a bowlful of love. Warm, creamy, satisfying – exactly what you need when you’re strolling through Salzburg trying to ignore the breeze that cuts through every jacket.
For our main courses, he had venison ragout and I had roast beef with onions. Typically Austrian, typically rich, typically „You could actually go to sleep after that – but you don’t, because you still want to explore the city.“ And yes, I’d been looking forward to it all day. A little comfort food is simply part of the Christmas season for me, especially in Salzburg, where the scenery doubles the experience anyway.
Christmas market in the old town
– this time in daylight
After dinner, we had to go outside—not because we wanted to, but because I knew otherwise I’d just stay put and curl up. So, out into the cold, a deep breath, and off we went towards the Christmas market.
The large Christmas market in the old town is a must for me on every visit to Salzburg. It’s the same every year, yet also a little different each time. This time it was still light outside, which suited me perfectly. I was able to take better photos, capture the colors, and appreciate the lighting. While everything is more romantic when it’s dark, in the daylight these wooden huts almost look like miniature film sets.
Of course it was crowded. Really crowded. But in Salzburg, that’s part of the experience. People strolling past you, groups stopping to watch, couples taking selfies, kids running around with hot drinks, and somewhere in the middle of it all, you, with cold hands but a warm heart. Yes, it sounds cheesy, but that’s just how Christmas is – and Salzburg only amplifies it.
The funny thing was: there was so much sweet food, more than usual, it felt like. Pastries, cotton candy, chocolate-covered apples, crêpes, waffles… but I didn’t find a single chestnut stand. That actually surprised me – especially in Salzburg, I would have expected to stumble across chestnuts. But oh well, you always find something else.
In our case, it was schnapps. Blackcurrant. And of course, we immediately bought a small bottle for the family. Christmas presents with 40% alcohol – practically medicine. After tasting it, our hands were cold again, and we needed a sweet snack for the way home. So we also got roasted almonds, which you absolutely can’t miss when you’re in Salzburg in winter.
We then visited almost every stall. And as my husband so aptly put it: „You always go where it glitters the most.“ Yes. Yes, I do. So what? I see absolutely no reason to change that. Somehow, this glitter scanning has become part of my personal Christmas market behavior.
Shopping in Salzburg
– smaller, narrower, but somehow cuter
After the Christmas market, we continued strolling through the city center, and suddenly I found myself standing in the middle of Getreidegasse, thinking, „Ah, right… post-Black Friday!“ No wonder, then, that it felt like half of Salzburg had the same idea: shopping. Or at least window shopping.
But shopping in Salzburg feels different than in Vienna. The streets are smaller, the buildings more compact, and everything seems a bit like someone has recreated the city in miniature. I love this feeling—it’s cozy, charming, and somehow sweeter than a big shopping street. You feel a bit like you’re shopping in a historical version of yourself.
Of course, it was packed. But I love that about Salzburg. This Christmas bustle perfectly complements the atmosphere. People strolling through the narrow streets with shopping bags, strings of lights strung overhead, little boutiques that look like something out of a movie. And yes… we bought cheese. Anyone who knows me knows that cheese isn’t optional—it’s essential. You always need cheese at home, no matter the season. And especially at Christmas. So we treated ourselves to a nice piece because… why not? In Salzburg, even shopping has a traditional feel.
Star Advent Market
– small, quiet, almost cozy
Even before we set off, we stumbled upon the Sternadventmarkt (Star Advent Market) by chance. A small, traditional market, not as crowded as the big ones in Salzburg. That’s exactly what I liked.
We simply strolled slowly through, took photos, and let everything sink in. No stress, no crowds, no overwhelming noise. Just lights, craft stalls, and that feeling of: „I could just stop here and look around.“ Places like these are what make Salzburg special for me—these small, hidden moments that you don’t plan, but that feel really good.
my summary
– a winter farewell
By the end of the day, we felt like we’d done everything you’re supposed to do in Salzburg at Christmastime: eat well, get chilled, warm up again, visit Christmas markets, buy snacks, shop, find cheese (very important!), and in between, just wander through the alleys.
I say it every year, but Salzburg simply has a magic that’s hard to describe. It’s the combination of the historical setting, traditional food, kitschy Christmas decorations, and that very special atmosphere that feels just right. Not too much, not too little, simply exactly what you need at this time of year.
And perhaps that’s precisely why it was so wonderful to return to Salzburg this year. A year’s break, a year’s distance – and yet it immediately felt familiar. As if the city had been waiting for our return.
When we left, I had cold hands, warm cheeks, a few new photos on my phone, a cheese in my bag, and a whole lot of Christmas spirit in my heart. And that’s exactly what Salzburg is to me in winter: a little fairytale that begins anew each year as soon as you turn into the old town.
I already know that I’ll be back again next year. Because some traditions shouldn’t be broken – and Christmas in Salzburg is definitely one of them for me.
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