„In order to comprehend the beauty of Japanese garden, it is necessary to understand – or at least to learn to understand – the beauty of stones.“ – Lafcadio Hearn; Setagaya Park
Okay, let’s be honest: Vienna has many beautiful parks. You know the Prater, you know the Stadtpark, maybe even Türkenschanzpark (sweet, eh), but just when you think you’ve seen it all, a place suddenly appears around the corner that feels like a shortcut to Kyoto – and you’re like, „Wait… what?“ That’s exactly how I felt about Setagaya Park in the 19th district. And yes, I’ve never been there before either. Shame on me.
I actually hadn’t planned anything that afternoon. Just a little walk, some fresh air, maybe a coffee to go. And then a friend said, „Have you seen that Japanese garden up there in Döbling?“ And I was like, „Japan… what?“ An hour later, I was standing in front of the entrance, completely unprepared for what was about to happen.
A gateway to the Far East – literally
You’re walking through this rather unspectacular residential area, Gallmeyergasse, quite leisurely. A few houses to the right, a bit of urban greenery to the left. Nothing to make your heart race. And then suddenly, there’s this bamboo gate, just like that. You walk through, and BAM! You’re out of Vienna and somehow in another world. No street noise, no hustle and bustle, no city. Instead: birdsong, rippling water, the rustling of bamboo in the wind.
“ The park is small. „
The first thing you notice: The park is small. Like, really small. No comparison to huge complexes like Schönbrunn or the like. But that’s precisely what creates the vibe. It doesn’t feel like a public space, but rather like a secret garden known only to a few insiders. And that feels pretty special.
Zen mode active
What immediately captivated me was the tranquility, even though there were lots of people there. You can hear the water running from a spring down the hill, cascading into a pond. And that’s no coincidence—the entire park is designed with great care. Nothing is left to chance; every plant, every stone, every path has a function, a feeling, a meaning. The paths, for example, are slightly uneven—intentional. So that you walk slower. So that you walk more consciously. So that you walk instead of running.
And then there’s this little teahouse. Almost inconspicuous, but beautiful. On some days, they even hold proper tea ceremonies, with all the trimmings—kimono, matcha, lots of silence. I missed it, unfortunately, but just knowing that something like this is happening in the middle of Vienna makes me a little happy.
You stroll through the garden, see koi in the pond, small bridges, a stone pagoda, lanterns, mosses, blossoms, shadows. And at some point, you just sit down and watch. No music, no Instagram, nothing. And you realize: You’re feeling really good right now.
Flora, Baby!
If you’re like me and go completely crazy in spring whenever a cherry tree blooms somewhere, welcome to heaven. They’re everywhere in Setagaya Park. In March/April, the pink blossoms explode here, and you just want to freeze time. Or at least take 800 photos.
But it’s beautiful here in summer too—shady, cool, green. And autumn? Guys, let’s talk for a moment about how beautiful golden-red foliage looks in a Japanese garden. It’s almost too much for my aesthetically challenged heart.
What I also liked: The mix of plants is incredibly exciting. There are classic Japanese plants like magnolias, bamboo, and pines, but also a few European species that somehow fit into the Zen look. Nature in Setagaya Park is like a quiet, delicate orchestra—no drama, no bombast, but everything fits.
my summary
aka my little park plea
Setagaya Park isn’t a place where you jog, have a picnic, or people-watch. It’s not necessarily a place where you’ll stay for hours, either. But it’s that one place you need every now and then, when everything gets a bit too much. When you don’t want to fly to the beach right away, but still want to get away for a bit.
It’s a place to breathe. To unwind. To be quiet. And yes, I know this sounds like some mindfulness book, but you’ll notice it yourself when you sit there and do nothing but be. – So don’t make a big deal out of it. Take a moment. And just go.
Short summary for those in a hurry:
1. Setagaya Park is a small Japanese garden in the 19th district – perfect for a mini-mental retreat.
2. The design is meticulously designed down to the last detail – with waterfalls, cherry blossoms, stones, and Zen vibes.
3. Spring and autumn are especially magical, but it’s actually always beautiful.
4. Not a place for action – but for relaxing, unwinding, and simply being quiet.
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