„Will is to grace as the jars is to the raider.“-Saint Augustine; Spanish Riding School
There are places in Vienna that absolutely everyone knows. Even if you’ve never been there, you’ve seen them a hundred times – on postcards, in guidebooks, or in photos taken by tourists capturing their perfect Vienna moment. The Spanish Riding School is definitely one of them. Besides the Hofburg Palace, it’s probably one of the city’s most famous landmarks. And I mean that sincerely: everyone knows about it. But hardly any Viennese have actually been inside. That’s just the truth.
I only really realized it during our guided tour. While countless visitors stroll through the Spanish Riding School every year, most of them aren’t even from Vienna. In fact, we learned that the majority of guests come from Germany.
A bit ironic, isn’t it? You live in one of the most beautiful cities in Europe – and often overlook the things that are right on your doorstep. For me, the visit was therefore something truly special. A dream I’d wanted to fulfill for a long time. And this time it finally happened. I was there – together with my husband and my best friend. Who else would I be with?
The story behind
the Spanish Riding School
Before I tell you about our tour, a brief look at its history. The Spanish Riding School is one of the oldest riding schools in the world, founded in the 16th century. It owes its name to the Spanish horses that were particularly prized at the time and contributed to the breeding of the Lipizzaner horses.
The famous Winter Riding School – the large Baroque hall – was built under Emperor Charles VI and opened in 1735. For centuries, classical horsemanship has been cultivated and passed down here. It’s a tradition so unique that it’s even part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. Walking through the Spanish Riding School, you can truly feel this history everywhere. It feels as if time has stood still here.
Perhaps the Spanish Riding School has fascinated me for so long because I visited the Lipizzaner stud farm in Piber last year.
That’s where the famous white horses that later perform at the Spanish Riding School are bred. That visit gave me a glimpse into the world of the Lipizzaner horses. You suddenly understand how much history, tradition, and incredible dedication these horses possess. So, when I finally stood before the Spanish Riding School, I at least had some prior knowledge. But honestly, nothing could have truly prepared me for just how impressive this place really is.
The most famous riding hall
in the world
Our tour began in the Great Hall of the Spanish Riding School. You’ve definitely seen it – even if you’ve never been there. It’s the very hall you see in every single photo. High white walls, huge windows, baroque architecture, and above it all, the gallery from which the spectators watch the performances. And quite honestly, it’s even more impressive in person.
I never would have guessed that up to 1,000 people could fit in this hall. But it really does. When you stand in the middle of the room and look up, you realize just how monumental everything is. The high ceilings, the bright light, and the perfect symmetry give the room an incredibly elegant feel. It almost feels like a ballroom for horses. Of course, there are different categories of seats, which vary in price. From simple seats to the truly exclusive boxes – there’s something for everyone. Every day, the so-called morning training takes place here. During this time, the Lipizzaner horses train together with their riders. Visitors can watch and experience how much patience and precision goes into each individual movement.
In addition, there are one or two performances daily at the Spanish Riding School, where the famous lessons are presented. Standing in this hall, you immediately understand why it’s so legendary. You feel a bit like you’re in a historical film. Or—if you’re as horse-crazy as I am—like a little girl living a fairytale dream.
From the auditorium to the stable
(or rather palace)
After the Great Hall, we continued on to the stables of the Spanish Riding School. Although… stable is actually the wrong word. This place is more like a palace for horses. And that’s exactly how I, as a princess, would imagine a stable.
The stables of the Spanish Riding School occupy the entire ground floor of the building and house around 400 horses. Yes, you read that right. Four hundred. When I heard that, I had to take a moment to process it. Of course, not all of them are in Vienna at the same time – many horses are also in training or spending time at other facilities of the Spanish Riding School. But still: The scale is impressive.
And then you see these stalls.
Everything is clean, well-maintained, and bright – almost regal. The bedding is neatly spread, and everything smells surprisingly fresh and peaceful. No chaos, no loud neighing, just an almost relaxed atmosphere. I briefly thought to myself: If I were a princess, my stable would probably look exactly like this. Perhaps I would have even built an open courtyard in the middle so I could constantly keep an eye on my horses. But anyway. These horses are incredibly valuable and are protected and cared for accordingly.
You can tell immediately: This isn’t just an ordinary stable community, but home to truly royal horses.
The work-life balance
of the Lipizzaner horses
What particularly fascinated me was the daily life of the horses at the Spanish Riding School.
Honestly, they probably have the best work-life balance in the world. Their daily routine looks something like this: About half an hour of dressage training. Then an hour of walking. Then they get washed. Some even get a kind of sauna. And after that? Eat. Sleep. Relax. In addition, the horses spend about six months of the year on vacation. Six months! Honestly—who wouldn’t want a life like that?
I had to laugh a little when I heard that. The horses at the Spanish Riding School probably live more relaxed lives than most people.
Of course, I couldn’t resist making a little contact with the horses. Within just a few minutes, I’d already made friends with several Lipizzaner horses. Or at least, that’s what I think. I stood there beaming from ear to ear—and you can definitely see that in the photos I took afterward. The horses at the Spanish Riding School all have different personalities, by the way. Some are curious, some are rather calm, and some seem almost playful.
But they all have one thing in common: They’re incredibly sweet. And—very importantly—a little cuddly.
The stable master and his horses
and my typical Slavic commentary
During our tour, a stable master guided us through the Spanish Riding School. I honestly don’t know if I’m allowed to mention his name – but I can say one thing: you can immediately tell how much he loves these horses. And it’s even more wonderful to see how much the horses love him. It’s that special connection between human and animal that you feel right away. As we walked through the stables of the Spanish Riding School, some of the Lipizzaner horses kept curiously poking their heads out of their stalls, constantly searching for a small sugar cube. And apparently, they actually get quite a lot of them – kilos of them, we were told.
I really tried to stay calm and well-behaved during our tour of the Spanish Riding School. But honestly? I would have loved to just pack one of those horses up and take it home with me. They’re just too beautiful. But then we learned that it costs about 5,000 euros a month to keep a horse at the Spanish Riding School. Oh well. Maybe I should just forget about the kidnapping plan after all.
There was also a rather funny moment during the tour. I looked at one of the horses from the front and—in my typical Slavic directness—said, „He’s so thin.“ Everyone else suddenly looked at me, a little puzzled. Then someone pointed out that the horses actually looked very well-fed. In other words, they’re rather… plump. So, yes. The Lipizzaner horses of the Spanish Riding School are clearly anything but malnourished.
Architecture, fireplaces and status symbols
– what’s hidden on the upper floors
What I also found incredibly fascinating was the architecture of the Spanish Riding School.
Especially the many fireplaces. In the past, the more fireplaces a building had, the richer its owner was. It was a real status symbol. There are still seven active fireplaces in the Spanish Riding School today. The rest are now out of service, but you can easily imagine how imposing they must have been back then.
Many people wonder what’s on the upper floors of the Spanish Riding School.
The answer is surprisingly simple. Part of it is used by the staff – as break rooms or offices. And at the very top? External offices are actually rented out there. Just imagine that. Your workplace is in the Spanish Riding School right in the heart of Vienna.
Honestly, that would probably be the coolest office in the city.
Minimal marketing
– and yet world-famous
One thing surprised me in particular. The Spanish Riding School does almost no marketing. Yet everyone knows it. That shows how strong its history and reputation are. However, we learned during the tour that this might change a bit.
Apparently, the Spanish Riding School will also be represented at the Longines Equestrian Tournament in Vienna next year.
And I think: That’s a perfect fit.
my summary
a Viennese dream blending tradition and love of horses
When we finally stood in front of the Spanish Riding School again, I had to pause for a moment. It was one of those moments when you realize a dream has come true. I felt like a little princess at the same time—and like the biggest horse fanatic in the world.
Even as a child, I had a very special connection with horses. Anyone who knows me knows that horses were never just animals to me, but always had something magical about them. That’s precisely why it was so special for me to finally stand in the Spanish Riding School and experience these incredible Lipizzaner horses up close. It’s a feeling that’s hard to describe. You stand in a building that has existed for centuries, see these beautiful white horses, and suddenly realize how much history actually lives on here every day.
For a moment, you really feel a bit like you’ve stepped back in time. And you know what? I would come back anytime. Because the Spanish Riding School isn’t just a tourist attraction.
It’s a piece of living Viennese history.
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